It will be probably C20NE, because it's very cheap times cheaper than Red Box and i don't need much power now, i just need a working engine, cause my 20S is pretty funked up Other candidate was M50B20 2. What gearbox i should use? It's pretty cheap, used gearbox from X20XEV cost like 30 pounds, so maybe it is good idea to buy newer one?
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In standard form a 2. Mounting a F20 from a 2. The F16 transmissions have been produced with close and long ratio. Try to find the engine and transmission a one lump. The most easy solution is to easy the Nova 1. With this combination you can re-use the standard Nova hubs. Attention: Only the GTE drive shafts have the correct number of splines, 22 to exact. On the standard 2. In the upper picture you can see the difference between the standard 2. In this upper picture you can see the differnce between the 1.
Get the thick 1. Lengths are mm and mm according to Melvin. Make sure not to make the radiuses not to sharp. Use the original nova hub to copy all the dimensions.
Caution: The 2. Make sure you correct this when turning down the hub, otherwise your brake disc will touch the brake caliper, as the hub is 3mm more outside. When changing the hubs the wheel bearing need to be changed as well.
These special hubs are available at M-tech as well. As an option you can take the two piece drive shaft from the calibra, to reduce the Torque Steer.
The length of this drive shaft is: mm. The transmission support on the front left is original nova. Support for the transmission on the rear side is the original nova as well but a spacer of 12 mm and 2 longer bolts are needed. Engine support right front, original Astra with a spacer of 40x40mm box beam and 2 bolts welded in.
The pictures show the problem and the solution. Or make a complete new one by drawing follows later. With this support a diesel radiator can be fitted. Only when the wheels are completely without load the anti sway bar will touch the exhaust. The best way to go is to use the nova GTE fuel tank and not the one from the standard nova. The fuel feed 12mm and return 8mm are bigger compared to the standard 8mm and 6mm tank.
The fuel feed is also at a different location, in the rear together with the tank sender unit and not in the front. Get a new piece of flexible fuel feed line 12mm since this is always dried out.
You will also need new 8mm line as well for the pump to the filter to the damper to the plastic line. Be sure to mount a new fuel filter. The plastic return line is 6mm, change this to 8mm, use the feed line from a car from a junkyard. This will give you 2 times 8mm. If your original car was a carburetted engine pull a new wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.
Use 2. The wide connector on the fuel pump is the positive, the minus can be mounted to the body of the vehicle, be sure to have a good ground. Keeping the original one is also possible but you must be aware of the reduced cooling capacity. Overheating problems can occur during hard driving on hot days.
Mounting a fan switch that goes on at a lower temperature can be a solution. Mounting a diesel radiator is a possibility but is not easy to mount. The combination of a 40x40mm spacer and this radiator is not possible. The thermo switch in the radiator needs to be changed as well for the one from the 2. Because of the lower radiator hose mount the bracket on the body of the vehicle needs to be modified and other mounting brackets and holes for the radiator need to be placed in other positions.
A new radiator hose also needs to be made. Make room for the alternator pulley. Create more room than you first think is necessary. Be sure to hammer the lower part of the frame inside as well.
Nothing is more irritating then the need to create more room when the engine is in place. The red area needs to be modified, so that the alternator pulley can run free at the yellow area. Remove the extension part at the shifting lever if the vehicle used to have a four-speed transmission, this way the mechanism will work for a five-speed transmission as well. Flip the bolt for the transmission mounting rubber at the front left from front to back, otherwise it will touch the transmission.
Try to mount anti roll bars in the front and the rear of the vehicle. This can have a positive influence on the driving characteristics.
The front suspension bars of a GTE are thicker than the normal ones and the anti roll bars are thicker as well. In general: the firmer the ride the better. The 1. Make sure you mount a good suspension kit, shocks and springs. Make sure you get some new oil for the engine and transmission, sparkplugs and an oil filter.
Check the spark plug leads, rotor and distributor cap, replace if necessary. Place the new sparkplugs and oil filter when the engine is mounted to avoid damage during the conversion.
To avoid problems later, mount a new timing belt. At this point when the engine is not in the vehicle it is the easiest to do. Replace the oil pump gasket use the metal one not the paper and seal as well. If the oil pan gasket is leaking replace it too. Turn down the outer V grove of the engine pulley in a lathe when the pulley is off the timing belt change is even easier. Remove the 2 cams of the transmission. One is in the way when mounting the cooling fan and the other limits the suspension travel of the left suspension.
Flip over the plastic joint of the gear linkage, this way the whole mechanism has the correct length. When the engine is mounted, replace the oil of the engine and the transmission. Normally the oil needs to flow out of the transmission when you remove the drive shafts.
Remove the cover of the differential, replace the gasket and refill the transmission till it drips out of the check hole beside the right drive shaft. Should be 1. Refilling goes easiest via the bleed air hole in the shifting fork housing on top of the transmission. The lines off an oil cooler:. For the tachometer you can use the green one. The original wiring from the nova can be used for the oil pressure, coolant temp, alternator and starter. The rest shows itself. To mount the ICU in the vehicle the loom needs to go through the bulkhead.
Pay a lot of attention on the place where the hole will be drilled. The bonnet hinge may not touch the loom in closed position. In the second part of the bulkhead a small section needs to be cut out. The original front manifold pipe needs to be slightly modified since the O2 sensor will touch the underside of the car. You can choose to make an exhaust yourself, use the standard one or place an aftermarket sport unit with a bigger diameter. Make sure it hangs without any tension in the rubber mounts.
Use the front brakes of the 2. Mount new copper rings at the brake lines. Pay attention to the air bleeders when buying the callipers. Trying to get this fixed is a nightmare. Make sure the seals are ok. Rear brakes can be left as they are but inspect then to be sure they work. Diesel rear brakes have bigger cylinders and give a little more brake pressure use only when needed.
Pay attention to the tires that you use. You are not aware of what that car will perform, especially when you have never driven a 2. All the parts need to settle and run in and check first if every thing is ok, you might have forgotten a small thing.
Just double-check everything!! Pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor the first time is something you will remember for a long time. It gives a really good feeling so enjoy it since you have worked hard for it!!
Conversion Corsa B to 2.0 8v
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GM Family II engine
The 20SEH is not lambda controlled and therefore it will not meet the emission standards required for this car. In standard form a 2. Mounting a F20 from a 2. The F16 transmissions have been produced with close and long ratio.
Conversion to 2.0 8v
The Family II is a straight-4 piston engine that was originally developed by Opel in the s, debuting in The engine features a cast iron block, an aluminium head, and a timing belt driven valvetrain. The timing belt also drives the water pump. In , a 2. The Family II also spawned two diesel variants, the 1. These engines are sometimes referred to as "Big-block" engines by enthusiasts; in contrast to the smaller Family 1 engines which are sometimes referred to as the "Small-block" engines.